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The basic dress for
men in the seventeenth century included Celtic brogues (a kind of
mocassin), knee - length tartan hose of an argyle pattern, a long
saffron dyed linen shirt of ample folds and yardage, and a mantle
of of wool, which in Scotland evolved into the kilt of today. Originally,
the kilt was a large rectangular plaid variously arranged on the
body, but generally belted at the waist producing the familiar kilted
pleats. District setts grew out of traditional weaving patterns
and the local availability of vegetable dyes. In Scotland, the circumscribing
geography of mountain and glenencouraged the association of certain
district setts with the dominant local clan.
However, the modern idea of the Scottish tartan as a kind of "clan
uniform" seems to have developed by analogy to the regimental
tartans of the 1780s, after the repeal of the ban on Highland dress.
Before that time, a poor Highlander wore any wool he could get his
hands on, while a rich one traded with other districts or else had
a sett of his own made to suit his individual taste. This was a
Celtic Society, with individual vanity setting the fashion statement.
There was no need then to manifest group identity with a uniform:
A person lived all her life with the same clan, in the same place,
and with the same leaders. What was needed was a sense of personal
identity, always achieved through individual adornment.
All of us at Argyle came together in the Catskill Mountains of Oneonta,
New York in 2001. We all sport argyle in various forms and colors
to exercise our individuality. We continue to live as a clan though
not all sharing the same longitude and latitude coordinates.
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